A
thousand or so workers were caught in the five garment factories
operating in an illegal 8-storey complex that collapsed in Dhaka,
Bangladesh. They were being paid their $38 a month by contractors
working for middlemen occupying a supply chain for some of the
world's largest retailers — including JC Penney, Cato Fashions,
Benetton, Primark and others, such as Canadian retailer Loblaws.
But
as we are told in workplaces right here in Red Deer, they and we all
ultimately work for the consumer.
It's
human nature to assign blame in a disaster such as this. We blame
Mohammed Sohel Rama, who owns Rama Plaza, the 8-storey factory complex
that was only designed to reach five storeys.
We
blame the engineering firms that drew up the blueprints for the three
storeys added — against building codes.
We
blame the factory operators in a $20-billion Bangladesh garment
industry based on inhuman working conditions imposed on 14-year-old
girls. We blame global retailers who obviously know what these
sweatshops are like, yet constantly squeeze their suppliers for
discounts that make conditions worse.
But
who can resist a T-shirt on sale for $5? Or a pair of jeans for $30?
Obviously, not us.
But
even some top-end brands that sell for much more come from factories
not far unlike the ones in Rama Plaza.
Aman
Singh is editorial director of CSRWire, a website for corporate
social responsibility news. He studies and reports on issues around
consumer choices, the supply chain blame game, and standards for
global garment production.
He
himself admits it's difficult for consumers to track through the
supply chain labyrinth and to determine if items on store shelves
were ethically produced. Even at our conscientious best, the workers
of the world cannot rely on us to vote with our purchases for a fair
global workplace.
He
told The Christian Science Monitor that only the top of the command
chain — huge retailers like Walmart and others — can enforce
ethical standards for their suppliers. Only they are
powerful enough to say “my way or the highway” to their
suppliers, and mean it.
The
United Nations is attempting to document standards that suppliers can
enforce globally.
These
would include global definition of child labour. In many
countries, you're an adult worker at 14. There's also an
hours-of-work standard, health and safety standards and other
benchmarks that would create a globally-recognized seal for ethical
business standards. Create a label and put it on products consumers
could look for.
Right
now, it's up to individual companies to do this on their own.
Canada's Mountain Equipment Co-op, for instance, is one retailer that
insists on factory inspections to guarantee their products were
ethically sourced.
But
even that is difficult. You can inspect a factory where shirts are
made, and everyone is paid a reasonable wage, in acceptable working conditions. But who made the fabric? For shoes, the uppers may be
made in one country, the soles in another, to be assembled in yet
another.
And
these companies operate in a global consumer market where price
trumps all other considerations.
Yet,
if we believe in a capitalist, consumer-driven ethic, consumers
cannot distance themselves from the supply chain. To know, is to be
responsible.
Here's
what we know. About 350 people are known to be dead in the factory
collapse. About 650 survived, and the on-site amputations needed to
remove crushed limbs made the clinics look like abattoirs.
Just
five months ago, 111 people died in a Bangladesh garment factory
fire, where the fire escapes were bolted shut.
These
are the kinds of places where much of our clothing is made.
If
consumers cannot easily determine the sourcing of items, we can at
least insist that retailers respect our demands to act ethically,
and sign on to an enforceable standard, whose seal can appear on the
stuff we buy.
Aman
Singh, for one, suggests prices may rise as a result, but the retail
price of a pair of sneakers you buy for even one full day's wages
represents a factory worker's full wages for two or three months.
Global
retailers cannot claim they didn't know Rama Plaza was unsafe. In
places where workers earn less than $2.00 a day, they're probably all
unsafe.
But
neither can we. Knowing that makes us responsible, too.