Restaurant owner David Jones works his
trade in Parksville, on Vancouver Island, a long car drive from
anywhere else. But the “anywhere else” around this town is
ocean-front temperate rainforest paradise.
So his Smoke 'N Water restaurant can do
decent business, but I expect keeping good staff might be a problem.
His solution? Pay servers up to $24 and
hour, cooks up to $18 an hour, plus medical and dental coverage —
with no tipping allowed. If someone leaves a tip, it is given
back. If it can't be given back, the money goes to charity.
Doing that required an 18-per-cent hike
in the menu price, but Jones believes his patrons will appreciate the
change.
Paying food service staff low wages (in
some cases even below minimum wage), on the premise that tips from
patrons will make up the difference toward a living income is a
“broken business model,” says Jones.
The no-tip plan, which is common
throughout Europe and gaining traction in the U.S., is not going to
change the industry in Canada overnight. It might not even be the
best business model in some markets.
But as a restaurant patron, and the
parent of university students who worked their way through school
partly in the food trade, I like the change.
One of my kids worked a summer at a
local Boston Pizza. She never knew what her labour over a shift would
bring her, but it was one of two or three jobs she worked through the
summer months while in university.
One evening, in walked Ron MacLean with
a group of friends. MacLean is notorious for his generosity in
tipping, and that night's table raised her hourly income
considerably.
Another daughter once served a large
group at a restaurant in Regina — and was tipped with a Bible. She
had to pay a percentage of her total food tab to the bartender and
cook staff, so she essentially worked for no pay at all that day.
I leave it to the Christian residents
in Regina to determine which chain restaurant ended up with a Bible
in its trash bin that night.
Working for tips might be a good
supplement to a student loan (especially if you don't report the
income) but it's a hard career choice. I wonder if we'd need fewer
temporary foreign workers in the food service industry, if more
restaurant owners had the vision of a David Jones.
Ian Tostenson, head of the B.C.
Restaurant and Food Association applauds Jones' foresight. He says
people should be tipping 15-20 per cent of their bills, but that
standard isn't being met, not by a long shot.
People argue that tipping is supposed
to be an incentive for good service, but the figures show that's
largely a myth. Bottom line, people tip whatever the service, which
is generally good. Very often, the tips are not.
Problems with service are sometimes not
the server's fault. And if service was indeed sub-par, the manager
should be told personally.
Whatever the protestations of people
who prefer the current system, the practice of making people work for
tips isn't so much about incentives. That idea begins with an
assumption that staff who serve others are out to screw you over,
unless you withhold some kind of reward.
Tipping is more about an expression of
power over someone who serves you. Come hither, pretend you really
like me.
Where service is not great, people
don't return, and that's an incentive that works on management, not staff.
A company called Square issues software
that works on the credit card readers at restaurants and any other
place where tipping is part of the paying culture. You've seen it
when the card reader asks you if you want to add a tip, either as a
percentage of the bill, or as a flat amount.
Guess what? Your tipping habits are
being tracked.
Albertans — wealthy oil barons that
we all are — are Canada's worst tippers (Bible donations excluded).
Vancouverites are next. Ottawa patrons are Canada's best, according
to the stats released by a Square survey of its data.
When the check was done in Calgary,
less than 60 per cent of meal payments contained a tip. The average
tip was 13.3 per cent.
I have no reason to believe Calgary is
an isolated island of Alberta's cheapskates, so let's just let the
survey stand as representative.
In a whole lot of establishments,
working for tips isn't working. Not as a long-term job choice. Maybe
that's why restaurant owners need so many labour Market Opinions to
get those poor foreigners on staff.
A tip: restaurant managers who require
experienced staff long-term might take a serious look at the business
model at Smoke 'N Water out in Parksville, B.C.
Follow Greg Neiman's blog at
readersadvocate.blogsot.ca
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